Table of Contents
Introduction
India’s tribal jewelry heritage is a vibrant art form that continues to thrive, capturing the attention of fashion enthusiasts worldwide. Reflecting the country’s rich diversity, each region boasts unique jewelry designs crafted by its indigenous tribal populations. The variety of styles is extensive, utilizing locally sourced materials such as shells, animal bones, metal, ivory, wood, feathers, and wild grass. This creative expression is particularly impressive, considering the limited resources available to these tribal communities, showcasing their incredible craftsmanship and cultural significance.
Tribal jewellery amongst certain communities signifies seniority and special status, and individual’s wealth and possessions, spiritual beliefs and even functional habits. These ornaments reflect the socio-cultural traditions of a particular tribal group.However, to the world outside, tribal jewellery is a source of inspiration for fashion and style. Amongst urban, artistic women of most age groups, it is an accessory that enhances their ethno-chic aesthetic. What is popularly known as ‘chunky’ jewellery, is indeed tribal jewellery. Forms of jewellery include necklaces, bangles, earrings, belts or exotic items like ear cuffs, lip rings, and toe rings.
The curated list for types of tribal jewellery are as follows –
Madhya Pradesh- Tribes of Bastar
Tribal jewellery is best showcased through images representing the various tribal communities across the nation. Bastar is a well- known tribal area in Madhya Pradesh, and well known for its tribal craft. Jewellery from Bastar is famous for necklaces made using one-rupee coins, which are popular. Apart from this material used are copper, glass, silver, wood, peacock feathers. Wild flowers, grass, natural beads and cane give Bastar tribal ornaments unique texture, charm and are commercially popular too, when retailed.
Rajasthan- Banjara Tribes
The Banjaras are a nomadic group and known for wearing colourful and chunky ornaments embellished with coins, shells, beads and metallic mesh which make them attractive and distinguishable as Banjara tribal art. An important piece of ornament is an ornate belt which they wear around the waist.
Meghalaya-Tribes of Garo, Khasi and Jaintia hills
Bright red coral beads of Jaintia and Khasi as well as thin glass fluted stems of Garo are typical adornments of Meghalaya’s indigenous tribes. These beads and stems are often strung together to form ornate necklaces, bracelets, trinkets, earrings, belts and many other jewellery items. The women wear a headgear during the ‘Lahoo’ dance.
Sikkim-Bhutia tribes
Traditionally, the Bhutia tribes used gold to craft elaborate jewellery, and now the more economical option of silver jewellery is produced mainly. Brightening up these pieces of jewellery are stone settings using turquoise, dze and coral stones, which make these pieces utterly unique and attractive.
Bihar-Santhal Tribes
The use of filigree jewellery in earrings, Kardhanis (worn around waist) and Chura (bangles) are pretty and delicate and typical of Santhal ethnicity. Jhumkis or tiny bells attached to some of these pieces and give off a charming vibe.
Arunachal Pradesh
The state has several indigenous tribes and these include the Wancho tribe. This tribe uses naturally available materials such as seeds, beetles, feathers, bamboo and cane to decorate their jewels. The Karka Gallong have their women adorned with coils of iron rings as earrings that go with their metal embossed tribesmen have a unique headdress decorated with feathers of the great Hornbill bird. The Apatani tribe actually forge iron bracelets made by the blacksmiths. Rengami Naga men wear flower-based jewellery in their ears, and red blossoms are common.
Maharashtra-Halba tribes
Maharashtra-Halba tribes people use metals like gold, silver, brass and aluminium to create beautiful Khosas (a beautiful lock of braid), Khinwas (for ear piercings) and phuli (for nose piercings). Tattoo jewellery is very common among the tribesmen.
Karnataka- Konda Kapus tribes
The Konda Kapus tribes use silver and copper coins to make beautiful ornaments. Old Indian coins are used to fabricate Konda Kapus jewellery and that has earned this tribal art a premium tag by antique collectors. Necklaces made from 25 paisa and 50 paisa coins are commonly worn by the womenfolk.
Nagland-Agami Tribe
Tribesmen of this tribal group adorn green ferns and foliage in their hair knots. It gives a very natural look and connects them with nature.
Himachal Pradesh
Himachal Pradesh- Tribes of Chamba, Kangra, Mandi and Kullu: Tribes of Himachal Pradesh wear anklets, iron-headed bangles, Hansalis or collar-like ornaments, Kachs or chokers all made of silver, as also ornate decorative daggers. Then again, colourful lac-filled silver
bangles are commonly worn by Pahari women of this region.
Chhattisgarh
Chhattisgarh tribal jewellery are made of copper wires, brass and iron (now, gold and silver), and embellished with natural seeds, bone or wood. Hill Maria tribal ornaments are finely crafted to include collars, laces, square-bar anklets, rings, conical -shaped earrings and nose rings.
West Bengal- Moukhali
This tribe in West Bengal mainly from the 24 Parganas district make ornaments from gold, silver, precious stones, as also wooden beads to create – the Bengali Tikli (worn on forehead), Kaan (traditional earrings), chik (gold choker), Hunsuli, Mantasha and Dokra – all exquisitely crafted. The Dhokra tribesare the original metalsmiths of West Bengal using a technique of lost wax casting known as Dhokra metal casting. Jewellery and decorative items of cast metal from this tribal group is shopped all across India and overseas.Keeping the tribal heritage alive and preservation of their way of life, including their inimitable art and craft has enriched the cultural fabric of India. The popularity of their distinct jewellery amongst the urban and the fashion- conscious have in turn supported sustainability of their ecosystem. Promoting and showcasing tribal handicraft, is another beautiful unity in diversity story. Tribal jewellery making as a course for aspiring jewellery designers will find many takers!
