The Rich History of the Saree and Draping Styles

Introduction

No other garment embodies elegance quite like the humble sari, often referred to as the “Six-Yard Wonder.” With origins tracing back to the Indus Valley Civilization (2800–1800 BC), the sari has truly stood the test of time. Its name evolved from ‘sattika,’ meaning women’s attire, as referenced in early Jain and Buddhist scriptures. Initially, the sari was a three-piece ensemble, including the Antriya (lower garment), Uttariya (veil), and Stanapatta (chest band), collectively known as Poshak. The sari’s design has evolved significantly, influenced by traditional dhoti styles and regional variations, allowing it to seamlessly blend Indian and international trends showcased at high-end fashion events.

The sari typically measures 5.5 to 8 meters in length and about 1 meter in width. It is worn by wrapping one end around the waist, with pleats displayed in front, and draping the other end over the shoulder. The introduction of the blouse during the Mughal and British eras has added to the sari’s modern appeal. This timeless garment enhances the beauty of women across the Indian subcontinent while showcasing a rich history and diverse draping styles that continue to captivate fashion enthusiasts today.

Different Styles of Sari

India’s diversity is seen in the entire range of saris with their geographic and ethnic roots, apart from the myriads of colours, weaves, textures and patterns options. Every region has a unique way of draping the sari and is distinct and identifiable. Styles too are associated with different geographical regions of India.

The regional names associated with silk, Ikat, and cotton saris are listed below alongside the names of the states they are natives of: –

PATOLA	GUJERAT
POCHAMPALLY	TELANGANA
BOMKAI	ODISHA
KHANDUA	ODISHA
SAMBALPURI	ODISHA
BENARASI	VARANASI, UP
BEHRAMPURI	ODISHA
BARGARH	ODISHA
JAMDANI	ORIGIN: BANGLADESH
TANT	BENGAL
MANGALGIRI	ANDHRA PRADESH
GUNTUR	ANDHRA PRADESH
NARAYANPET	MAHARASHTRA
CHANDERI	MADHYA PRADESH
MAHESHWARI	MADHYA PRADESH
NUAPATNA	ODISHA
TUSSAR	BENGAL, BIHAR
KODPAD	TRIBAL ODISHA
MANIPURI	MANIPUR
BANDHANI	RAJASTHAN
LEHERIA	RAJASTHAN
BAGRU	RAJASTHAN
AJRAKH	GUJERAT (KUTCH)
SUNGUDI	TAMIL NADU
KOTA	RAJASTHAN
KALAMKARI	ANDHRA PRADESH (Antique art)
BALUCHARI	BENGAL

Tie-dyed and block-print saris known as Bandhani, Leheriya, Bagru, Ajrakh, Sungudi, Kota, and Kalamkari are native to states like Gujerat, Rajasthan, and Tamil Nadu. These have prints and patterns easily identifiable with the region they originally come from.

Tie-dyed and block-print saris known as Bandhani, Leheriya, Bagru, Ajrakh, Sungudi, Kota, and Kalamkari are native to states like Gujerat, Rajasthan, and Tamil Nadu. These have prints and patterns easily identifiable with the region they originally come from.

With the import of chemical dyes new techniques of dyeing and printing textiles was developed and added a whole new rendition of saris and sari options.

Industrialisation development saw wealthy Indians get artisans to embellish saris with expensive stones, gold thread work (zari) to give a rich luxurious look and feel to the saris. Gota Patti or traditional embroidery is for a formal look. Other folk embroidery methods used are mochi, pakko, kharak, suf, kathi, phulkari and gamthi.  Modern fabrics like polyester, georgette, charmeuse and the French Chiffon have been in vogue for a while.

Over the ages, draping styles have become varied and have evolved from traditional, royal, modern, boho-chic and landed on the catwalks of high-end fashion! 

The Evolution of the Sari and Draping Techniques

The commonly used style of draping is the Nivi style. Iconic, represents the look of traditional Indian woman. This has its origins in the Deccan region. The sari is worn with a fitted bodice or a choli and a petticoat, called ghagra, parkar, or ul-pavadai. 

Nivi Style Draping –This is the most popular traditional draping style. A universal and versatile style that never goes out of fashion!

The modern-day style of sari draping can be attributed to Gyanodanandini, (wife of Satyendranath Tagore, the elder brother of Rabindranath Tagore). Her pioneering sari wearing, was influenced by the Parsi style adopted during her stay in Bombay where her husband was posted.

Belted Sari Draping– Handed down from ancient times, this vintage style of accessorizing the sari with a Kamarpatta, was in fashion during 60’s and 70’s era. Originally a gold or carved metal belt. Could be  made of leather, beads, fabric and is worn around the waist over the sari. 

Retro Style Sari Draping –Actress Mumtaz especially from the Indian film industry did much to popularise this draping style… also known as the ‘wrap around’ style. The sari has a narrow border and has 3 layering without the usual pleats.

Neck Drape style– Sari is worn by wrapping pallu around the neck like a scarf – for a funky look.

Gujarati Style Sari Draping –Typically associated with Gujerat, where the pallu is taken from the back and brought over the right shoulder and is spread across the chest. Style also followed in states like Rajasthan, Bihar, Jharkhand and North India. 

Jacket over Sari Draping –Sporting a jacket with the sari for a contemporary look has hit the right notes with fashion designers. For a smart- casual, modern and/or formal look.  

Pant Style Sari Draping –Current and trendy, when you team the sari with pants or jeggings. 

Mermaid Style Draping– This style gives a flattering look and is distinctive style sari will have close fitting at the hip section and flared out at hem

Marathi / Laavani Style – Traditional Maharashtra sari measures 8 metres. One portion of the sari is lifted up between the legs and tucked behind at the waist, while another portion is draped as a pallu over the shoulder.

Bengali Style – Traditional Bengali sari will be in white in colour red border. Wide box pleats are tucked at front and pallu is taken over the left shoulder 

Coorgi or Kodagu Style – This is unique, where pleats are created at the back for free movement of the legs. The pallu is wrapped around the front chest and brought over the shoulder from the back

Oriya Style – Follows the same basic pleating procedure for the lower body and pin the pleated pallu on left shoulder. 

Lehenga Style Sari Draping – Popular in North India

Rajrani Style Sari Draping – As the royals did it!

Kerala Style – This traditional attire will have colour ranging from pure white to cream with a gold border Sari consists of two- piece cloth. Mundu is draped on the lower part of the body, while neriyathu is worn over the left shoulder.

Tamilian Iyer Style – Usually bordered saris, wrapped around the waist, the pleats are positioned at left waistline. Rest of the sari is taken over the shoulder and wrapped again around the waist.

Rajasthani Style and Bandhani and Leheriya patterned on sari and ghagra choli, in brilliant colours

Enki Style – This is typical Andhra Pradesh attire, where the lower part is made to look like a dhoti. Pleats are tucked at the back of waist. Pallu is pulled over shoulder and wrapped around the waist.

Assam Style Sari Draping – This sari type is known as mekhla chadar and composed of two pieces. Mekhla is the flowing skirt and Chadar is the upper wrap called Riha similar to Anchal. The chadar is worn in a criss-cross pleated-form down the front side.

Chhattisgarh Style – Here the sari draping is very different from all other and quite unusual and interesting!

Dhoti Style sari draping draws inspiration from Maharashtra. After draping sari around the waist, the longer section is brought from the back to the front, with three-to-four-inch pleats. Distinct feature are the cowls that pass from front under the leg, for a dhoti finish!

Sari draping styles have further evolved from the basic Nivi style and elements of western cuts and designs, to include the Indo-western style, skirt style, short Patli style, Half- float half- tucked style, the Tee or Tunic style, and many more styles that creativity and imagination allow. The charm and beauty of the world’s oldest garment the sari, will live to enhance the look of women, and enchant one and all!